The extraordinary paradox of ‘Mexican’ beer

No doubt there once existed a truly Mexican style of beer, brewed in a tradition that, through centuries of trial and error, fine-tuned indigenous ingredients and local conditions into perfect harmony.

Unfortunately, we’ll never taste it.

Each and every invading force, from the Spanish conquistadors to Maximilian, apparently decided they could do better than what the locals were pouring. And perhaps as a result, we’ve been left with a grafting of someone else’s beer preference onto climate, soil and water conditions that never quite suited it.”*

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