The rebirth of Buenos Aires

“The good, greedy news: today’s Buenos Aires is both astonishingly cheap and deliciously appetising. The rate of exchange makes it a better place to shop and eat than New York. Along the gleaming waterfront, it even seems newer. A parade of jazzy restaurants, chromium-bright offices and A-listers’ apartments have replaced the obsolete warehouses, whose bricks – originally made in Manchester – have been recycled to grace the russet facades.

At reputedly the best of the many restaurants, Cabaña Las Lilas, the starters alone are a meal, after which a shared portion of sirloin steak, grilled a la parilla, with a pyramid of sweet potato on the side, will sate two merely famished people. Call a few days ahead and speak a little Spanish, por favor – even if it’s not in the BA accent, which resembles that of Andalusia – and there’s a better chance of a terrace table on the quayside.”*

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