A storefront to savor – El Nandu in Chicago

“Restaurants come in all shapes, sizes and settings. The storefront. The hole-in-the-wall. The grand edifice. The cool. The modern. The jewel box. The over-the-top tribute to what money can buy. I have had great food in the smallest of restaurants and lousy food in the largest.

El Nandu, a fine little storefront Argentinian restaurant on West Fullerton, is not very big. Something like 20 tables in all. The highest-priced dish on the menu is the “Parrillada Argentina par Uno” (beef short ribs, sausages, sweetbreads). It’s $16.95 and comes with a choice of rice or potatoes. You can pay a higher price than that just for the salad bar at one of those fancy, big-box Argentinian steakhouses that keep riding into town.”

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