The Comida quest: A search for down-home Spanish cooking

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Posted on: March 2nd, 2006
Filed Under: [ Food ] [ Hispanic News ]

“A quest must begin somewhere, and mine began with a search for good octopus. I had eaten it for the first time decades ago at a Madrid tasca — a rustic tapas bar — where the eight-footed beast hung from a hook on the ceiling and a big Spaniard with a big knife cut off a tentacle and flung it into a pot of boiling . . . oil? Water? I’d been tasca-hopping all night and my powers of observation were less than keen.

A plate of good octopus is hard to find: When it is not meltingly tender, one becomes horribly aware that one is eating sucker-studded tentacles. But at La Taberna de San Román, I found fork-tender pulpo a la gallega.”

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