Latino Food Workers in Los Angeles Acquire a Knack for Kosher Cooking

LOS ANGELES ”” The strictest rabbinic authorities certify the kosher restaurants lining Pico Boulevard, but most of the people preparing the food are Latinos who never had met a rabbi before taking their current jobs.

At the Pico Kosher Deli, the man behind the meat slicer, Rene Baraona, 31, grew up in a Catholic family that emigrated from El Salvador when he was 4. Baraona’s sister now works in the back of the deli, making the matzo balls and knishes, while Baraona is up front putting together pastrami sandwiches. After 11 years at the deli, he has started bringing home loaves of challah bread each weekend and looking for kosher meat at the market.

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